Tadoba has always been very close to my heart. My first-ever safari was in Tadoba in October 2012, and this visit marked my seventh trip to this incredible wilderness.
My previous six safaris had all been during winter or summer. I had always wanted to experience Tadoba during the monsoon season and witness the jungle in a completely different mood. During the monsoon, only about 20–25 km of the TATR main road remains open for safaris, significantly reducing the chances of tiger sightings. The dense vegetation makes it even more challenging to track the movement of tigers and other wildlife.
August 5, 2016
Heavy rains in Mumbai threatened our plans to visit Tadoba. Fortunately, the rain eased by afternoon, and we began our journey to Nagpur. Sameer, Kaustubh, Amrendra, and I boarded the train, excited for the adventure ahead.
August 6, 2016
Our train arrived 30 minutes ahead of schedule. Nagpur welcomed us with light showers. After breakfast, we headed towards Tadoba and reached Moharli by afternoon. Following lunch, we prepared for our first monsoon safari.
At the gate, we heard reports of a morning sighting of Sonam and her cubs near Telia Road, which immediately raised our excitement levels.
The safari began on a promising note. Near Khatoda Gate, we witnessed a pack of wild dogs feeding on a spotted deer. Shortly afterward, we spotted a Changeable Hawk-Eagle with a squirrel kill. It was a rare sight, and we spent some time photographing the magnificent raptor before continuing towards Tadoba Lake and Pandharpauni.
Despite thoroughly exploring the area, there were no signs of tigers. At the T-point junction connecting Navegaon Road and Pandharpauni, we heard alarm calls from spotted deer deep inside Navegaon Road. Several gypsies rushed toward the direction of the calls, but after a while, silence returned to the forest.
Around 4:30 PM, heavy rain began and continued until 6:00 PM, bringing our first safari to an early end.
August 7, 2016 – The Day of Maya
The second safari started positively with a herd of Indian bison grazing along the TATR road. After spending time photographing them, we moved toward Pandharpauni Waterhole No. 1.
The grasslands were alive with birdlife. Lesser Whistling Ducks, Red-wattled Lapwings, and Eurasian Stone-curlews provided excellent photographic opportunities. With plenty of time on hand, we experimented with different compositions against the lush green monsoon backdrop.
We later patrolled Navegaon Road but found little activity. Deciding to wait near the T-point junction, we were surprised when the gloomy weather suddenly gave way to bright sunshine. Soon, however, it was time to return, and the second safari ended without major excitement.
Before our third safari, we received encouraging news: two new routes—Jamunbodi and Jamunzora—had been opened for visitors. This increased both the area available for exploration and our hopes of spotting a tiger.
As the afternoon safari began, almost every gypsy headed towards the newly opened routes. We were no different.
At the junction of Jamunbodi and Jamunzora, we heard two alarm calls from spotted deer. Our guide suggested taking the left route toward Tadoba Lake while most other vehicles turned right toward Jamunzora.
That decision changed everything.
As we approached Panchdhara, three or four gypsies coming from the opposite direction signaled frantically for us to turn back. Before we could understand what was happening, the majestic tigress Maya emerged from the Panchdhara stream and began walking towards us.
Our experienced driver quickly reversed the vehicle, positioning us perfectly ahead of her route.
What followed was one of the most unforgettable wildlife encounters of my life.
Maya came within approximately fifteen feet of our gypsy. There was no vehicle between us and her. Calm, confident, and completely at ease, she continued her routine patrol, scent-marking her territory along the Tadoba Lake Road.
Our guide and driver knew exactly where to stop for the best habitat shots. As Maya walked gracefully along the road, we captured every possible frame—habitat photographs, head-on portraits, close-ups, and territory-marking behavior.
It almost felt as though she understood every photographer’s wish and posed accordingly.
Maya truly was the showstopper of Tadoba.
She was the Queen of Tadoba, and the Tadoba Lake Road had become her personal runway. Around fifteen safari vehicles witnessed this magnificent Royal Bengal Tiger walk.
Even a State Transport bus arrived during the spectacle, and its passengers received an unexpected wildlife show free of charge.
After nearly forty minutes of walking, Maya finally left the road and disappeared into the forest as mysteriously as she had appeared.
It was not just a sighting.
It was the walk of a lifetime.
As we continued toward the T-point junction, we met several gypsies that had chosen the Jamunzora route. Unfortunately, they had missed this incredible experience. Meanwhile, news spread that a male tiger had been sighted on Navegaon Road. Vehicles rushed toward the location, but by the time we arrived, the tiger had already vanished into the jungle.
It was nearing 5:00 PM, and we began our journey back to Moharli.
We were floating on cloud nine.
All we could think about was that royal walk.
August 8, 2016
Once again, Tadoba surprised us. The morning sky was completely clear, without a single cloud.
Since this was our final safari and we had already experienced Maya’s unforgettable sighting, we decided not to chase tigers. Instead, we wanted to enjoy the forest and focus on bird photography.
The safari began with a cool breeze. We explored Jamunbodi before heading toward the Kolara Gate area. On our way to Pandharpauni, our guide suddenly whispered, “Leopard… Leopard… Leopard!”
A fully grown male leopard was crossing the road.
Unfortunately, the sound of our approaching vehicle alerted him. Within seconds, he disappeared into the forest, leaving us no time to photograph him.
But as our group’s motto says:
“We captured the moment in our hearts.”
We continued exploring Pandharpauni, Navegaon, and parts of the Khutwanda area. Despite the beautiful weather, luck was not on our side for any further major sightings.
After exiting Moharli Gate, we gathered for a group photograph—a simple memory to carry home from Tadoba.
During our stay, Suleman Bhai and Shanno Bhabhi took exceptional care of us. Their hospitality was outstanding, and the food was simply amazing. A special mention goes to Jimmy, their nine-month-old dog. I hope she remembers me when I return.
And I certainly will return.
Again and again.
Because Tadoba is not just a destination for me.
It is my second home.
